TRIP ITINERARY
prepared by
Vic Widman
of
as part of
DAY 1-2 ALICE SPRINGS
Comment: You really should allow several days in Alice Springs, as there is lots to see. But your allotted time is very short so here is my suggested itinerary.
On your day of arrival you should collect your hire 4WDrive and attend the basic half day 4WD training day arranged by Britz with Jol Flemming from Direct 4WD Awareness telephone 08 8952 3359 and do some shopping to purchase food items for the next 11 days.
On your next day devote it to sight seeing along the West MacDonnell Range. Follow Namatjira Drive and just 16 kilometres west of Alice Springs you will see the road on your right to Simpson Gap. Each of the scenic locations mentioned in these notes require you to park the car and undertake short walks into the gorges.
The next point of interest is Standley Chasm which is a further 24 kilometres along Namatjira Drive. There is a minimal entry fee payable at this spot. Walk to the chasm along the rocky creek bed, the walls close to within a couple of metres of each other and the rocks glow a rich red. This spot is best seen at midday when the sun is directly overhead, but the Chasm is also very popular with tourist coaches and you will be swamped at this time by hoards of Japanese, American and European tourists, which makes it difficult to get that perfect photo without a human body in it.
As you head further west on Namatjira Drive, you will pass Larapinta Drive going off to your left, you will also pass by Ellery Big Hole, another nice spot and eventually come to Ormiston Gorge, which is about 80 kilometres past Standley Chasm. The road is sealed all the way and scenery along the Range is beautiful.
Ormiston Gorge is in my opinion one of the best in the West MacDonnell, allow at least an hour or maybe two hours to explore this gorge on foot. It is much larger than the previous gorges and very beautiful with some amazing colours in the rock, sand, water, trees and even the sky! Take a walk along the bottom of the gorge and climb to the top of the cliffs overlooking the gorge too.
Just up the road from Ormistion Gorge is Glen Helen Gorge, this is quite a long walk from the car park to the actual gorge entry which is usually blocked by a large body of water but the reflections of the rocky headlands in the calm water are spectacular. A few years ago I took a scenic flight over Glen Helen Gorge from the airstrip at the Glen Helen Resort, if this is available you should consider doing it as the full majesty of the folded West MacDonnell Range is best seen from the air.
This is a pretty full day and if there is anytime left you can continue further west on an unsealed road for 20 kilometres to visit Redbank Gorge. You should then head back along Namatjira Drive to Alice Springs. You will most likely be doing this drive in the late afternoon and I can assure you that the setting sun reflecting off the West MacDonnell Range is one of the most beautiful sights in outback Australia. Simply amazing.
In Alice Springs itself there are some great things to see as well, the Desert Park is worth at least three hours, the Transport Museum needs about an hour, Panorama Guff requires at least 30 minutes and the old Telegraph Station, to the north of the town, will give you an insight into the early history of Alice Springs and requires at least two hours.
In the evening a visit to the Sounds of Starlight theatre in the main street of Alice Springs is a must.
Information: Alice Springs Visitor Centre 08 8952 5800
Tourist Bureau for NT 1800 621 336
Maps = Westprint East MacDonnell Ranges and MacDonnell Ranges
Hema Red Centre Map & Central Australia maps
MacDonnell Range Holiday Park 08 8952 6111 for great camping.
The following trips entail overnight camping in your bushcamper 4wd.
Travel Time: 3 hours
Route: Alice Sprigs, Hermannsburg Mission, Palm Valley
Comment: This is a suggested overnight camping trip. The road to Hermannsburg is sealed all the way and it is always a nice drive along the West MacDonnell Range. A visit to Hermannsburg should be included as it has the buildings of the old mission restored, there are regular tours for a small fee and paintings by Albert Namatjira on display (Albert was a famous Aboriginal landscape painter.)
Leaving Hermannsburg follow the road back out to the sealed road from Alice Springs and turn right, follow this for a short while until you see the turn on your left to Palm Valley. This road is unsealed and soon crosses the bed of the Finke River where you will need to engage 4WD. If your 4wd is fitted with free wheeling hubs on the front wheels (all Toyota Troop Carrier based 4WDrive campers have this item) these need to be engaged to the lock position by turning the tab in the centre of the front wheel, do this to both front wheels. Then you engage 4WD via the transfer lever inside the vehicle.
The road into Palm Valley is slow going and gets quite rough in places but is well used by lots of tourists. The scenery is fabulous and there are some well marked stops and walks to do to various points of interest. Camping at Palm Valley is arranged by the Finke Gorge National Park and it might pay to book a site before leaving Alice Springs by calling the Ranger on 08 8956 7401. After making camp you should follow the rough road to its very end and do the walks through Palm Valley, try to include a walk along the river bed and return by the top trail along the ridge top. Even in Winter it can get very hot in the gorge, so go prepared with water and a hat. This is a very spectacular walk and you should allow at least 3 hours.
Fuel: Alice, Hermannsburg
Information: Tourist Bureau for NT 1800 621 336
Alice Springs Visitor Centre 08 8952 5800
Finke Gorge National Park 08 8956 7401
Maps = Hema Central Australia & Hema the Red Centre
NOTE: You should check with the Ranger at Finke Gorge National Park (08 8956 7401) to ascertain if the Boggy Hole Track is open.
Travel Time: 3 hours
Route: Palm Valley, Hermannsburg, Finke River
Comment: From Palm Valley retrace back to the sealed road and turn right towards Alice Springs. When you reach the road on your left which goes into Hermannsburg you should turn right onto an unsealed road. This leads in a straight line to the Finke River Gorge National Park. After passing a ramshackle aboriginal community the road joins the bed of the Ellery Creek and you follow this to the right. The road literally follows the creek bed and will be sandy, possibly requiring 4WD. The Finke River joins this track on the right and you are driving in the river bed of the Finke. This drive is magnificent. There was very bad flooding through here in March 2000 so you should obtain the latest information from the Ranger at Palm Valley, there has been some quick sand areas last year (2002) but I believe this track should be OK now for experienced 4wdrivers.
When you reach Boggy Hole which is distinct by the fact it is usually the only spot with water, there are some cleared camping spots along the river bed, in reality you can camp where-ever you please, but you should spend an evening here to enjoy the colours of sunset on the surrounding gorge walls, this is truly magnificent. There should be plenty of firewood laying around although right at Boggy Hole it can be a little hard to find. There are no amenities, this is true outback camping.
Fuel: Hermannsburg, next fuel at Kings Canyon which is 250 kilometres from Hermannsburg.
Information: Tourist Bureau for NT 1800 621 336
Alice Springs Visitor Centre 08 8952 5800
Finke Gorge National Park 08 8956 7401
Maps = Hema Central Australia
Travel Time: 6 hours
Route: Finke River and Finke River NP, Ernest Giles Rd, Kings Canyon.
Comment: (Note – if advice from Ranger is not to continue down the Finke Gorge from Boggy Hole then you need to retrace and follow the Mereenie Loop to Kings Canyon, my notes take you through the Gorge, plenty of sand driving awaits)
The drive down the Finke River is a highlight of any trip to the Centre, take your time and plenty of film. The track follows the course of the river for some time with magnificent towering red coloured cliffs along the way. This section was badly flooded in March 2000 so make sure that you check conditions with the Ranger before leaving Palm Valley. The track may be a little hard to follow at times because there can be lots of tracks leading off to camp sites along the way, the best advice is to keep following the more used trail. There may be signs indicating the route to Kings Canyon if they have not been swept away in the recent floods.
The track will eventually emerge at an intersection with a road which leads to Tempe Downs, if you continue straight ahead here across some red sand hills the track continues straight ahead to the Palmer River which is wide and sandy and you will need to engage 4WD. After the Palmer River the sandy track meets the graded road leading to Kings Canyon to your right, this is Ernest Giles Road. You should turn right here and head towards Kings Canyon.
Follow the unsealed Ernst Giles Road for 38 kilometres until it has the road leading to Ayres Rock joining on your left, continue straight ahead on the sealed road for a further 103 kilometres to Kings Canyon.
At Kings Canyon there is good camping at the Kings Canyon Frontier Lodge (also expensive accommodation). Next to the campsite is a service station, store with a good range of groceries and a bistro style restaurant. I suggest two nights here as this will give you a full day to explore the Canyon, which, in my opinion is time well spent.
Fuel: Kings Canyon Frontier Lodge
Longest distance between fuel Hermannsburg to Kings Canyon 250k
Information: Kings Canyon Frontier Lodge Ph 08 8956 7442
Tourist Bureau for NT 1800 621 336
Alice Springs Visitor Centre 08 8952 5800
Finke Gorge National Park 08 8956 7401
Maps = Hema Central Australia
Comment: Devote today to doing the walk up and over Kings Canyon, it is one of the most breathtaking walks available in Central Australia. I would allow say 5 hours (you could walk it straight in say 2-3 hrs, but it is better to take your time and really explore the top of the cliffs. An afternoon walk might catch the best colours with the sun so walk up the floor of the canyon in the morning.
To reach the top of the cliffs overlooking the canyon there is a steep climb to start with but after this the walking is pretty easy. Take some water and a hat, it can still get hot up here even in Winter. The walking tracks are clearly defined.
Travel Time: 7 hours
Route: Kings Canyon, Mereenie Loop, Gosse Bluff, Larapinta Drive, Alice Springs
Comment: Permits for the Mereenie Loop are available from the Kings Canyon Frontier Lodge and cost $3 per vehicle.
The Mereenie Loop continues towards Alice Springs and is a very scenic drive, the road surface is generally pretty good but unsealed.
You should take the diversion off to your right to Gosse Bluff and drive into the Bluff as far as possible, it is very scenic. Return to the Larapinta Drive and continue towards Alice Springs past Hermannburg, on your way stop in at Wallace Rockhole for a quick look, you could even camp here if you wanted, there is a commercial camp ground here run by the aboriginal community.
Otherwise head back into Alice Springs and camp at the MacDonnell Range Holiday Park or the accommodation of your choice.
Fuel: Kings Canyon Frontier Lodge, Hermannsburg
Longest distance between fuel Kings Canyon to Hermannsburg 260k
Information: Alice Springs Visitor Centre 08 8952 5800
Tourist Bureau for NT 1800 621 336
Maps = Hema Red Centre Map & Central Australia maps
MacDonnell Range Holiday Park 08 8952 6111
Travel Time: 3 hours
Route: Alice Springs, Old Ghan Railway, Maryvale Station, Chambers Pillar
Comment: The road south to Chambers Pillar follows the route of the Old Ghan Railway line, but it is well graded and kept in good order as it is the main route to the Aboriginal community at Maryvale. The original Old Ghan Road goes due south but the new road veers to the right out to Maryvale Station. 26 kilometres south of Alice Springs you will pass and turn off to Ewaninga Rock Carvings, these are very old rock carvings made by aboriginal people many thousands of years ago.
There are numerous gates to open and close on the way to Maryvale, always leave a gate as you find it (either open or closed). Maryvale is an aboriginal community with a small store with some supplies and fuel. The road is signposted clearly to Chambers Pillar and depending on when it was last graded is varying in quality, it can be deeply scored by ruts or badly corrugated. The crossing of the Hugh River is usually quite sandy requiring 4WD.
Continue to follow the signs to Chambers Pillar as there are numerous tracks off the main road. There is a large hill to climb near Chambers Pillar which requires high range 4WD. At the top you get your first view of Chambers Pillar, worth a stop. The road then drops off this hill but stop just before its rough descent and look at the broken rock around the edge of the road, you should be able to locate numerous fossils in the red rock.
The track narrows and enters sandy country once off the large hill and crosses sand dunes beside a fence line under Desert Oaks, very pretty through here. Pick-up some firewood before you reach the Pillar as fire wood collection is not permitted in the Reserve surrounding Chambers Pillar.
The camping at the Pillar is the usual National Parks log bollards at shin height creating difficulties in the dark. There is a water tank and long drop dunny and free gas BBQ’s are now also provided.
Viewing Chambers Pillar at sunset is a highlight and the etchings from various explorers on the Pillar is also interesting but the National Parks constructed platform detracts from the beauty of the Pillar. Take plenty of time at sunset to wander around taking in the beautiful colours on the rock and the surrounding rock outcrops.
Fuel: Alice Springs and Maryvale
Longest distance between fuel Alice Springs to Maryvale = 110k
Information: Tourist Bureau for NT 1800 621 336
Alice Springs Visitor Centre 08 8952 5800
Maps = Hema Central Australia & Hema The Red Centre
Travel Time: 7 hours
Route: Chambers Pillar, Maryvale, Hugh River Stock Route, Stuart Hwy, Rainbow Valley, Alice Springs
Comment: You will need to retrace along the road back to Maryvale Station and then out to the road that leads back to Alice Springs. You should turn left onto the Hugh River Stock Route and follow the stock route due west, the road conditions are usually quite good. It will be a little sandy as you cross the Hugh River under the new Ghan railway line. You then cross the new railway line and head west once more to the Stuart Hwy which is sealed.
From here it is an easy run back up to Alice, you will pass the turn off to Rainbow Valley just past Orange Creek Station and Stuart’s Well. Follow the road to Rainbow Valley for 22 k’s and watch the colours of this beautiful outcrop at sunset, this is simply amazing and must not be missed. You could camp here or return to Alice Springs after viewing sunset. The road to Rainbow Valley is unsealed and sandy in parts but quite OK if dry.
Fuel: Maryvale Station, Stuart’s Well & Alice Springs
Information: Tourist Bureau for NT 1800 621 336
Alice Springs Visitor Centre 08 8952 5800
Maps = Hema Central Australia & Westprint MacDonnell Ranges
Kings Canyon Frontier Lodge 1800 817 622
Travel Time: 8 hours
Route: Alice Springs, Numery Road, N’Dhala Gorge, Ross River, Arltunga, Claraville, Cattle Water Pass.
Comment: This trip really should be done over 3 days but or your time is running short. Leaving Alice follow the road towards Ross River but then turn off it onto the Numery road. This leads to a sandy track that will take you into N’Dhala Gorge. The drive down N’Dhala Gorge is fabulous, if you have time, do some of the walks in the gorge, there are several sandy creek crossings which will require 4WD. You emerge near Ross River Homestead, but if you have the time a camp overnight in the Gorge would be exceptional, especially at sunset.
You emerge at Ross River where you can get fuel and drinks or even stay in accommodation. Follow the gravel road to the old mining town of Arltunga and spend an hour or two looking over this place.
From here follow the road to Claraville and then follow the Explorers Trail through the East MacDonnell Ranges. This is a fascinating four wheel drive (high range) drive which should be taken slowly to really enjoy it. There are tracks leading off to various fossicking sites and these are worth exploring if not for the fossicking certainly for the fascinating scenery. The Track is clearly marked as the Explorers Trail and eventually emerges on the Plenty Hwy. You should make a bush camp before reaching the Plenty Hwy and when you do, take a walk in the bush along the dry creek beds looking for garnets which are plentiful near the Plenty Hwy end of the track. You could easily spend two or three days following the route I have described here, it all depends on how much time you have.
Fuel: Alice Springs, Ross River,
Longest distance between fuel, Ross River to Gem Tree = 120k
Information: Ross River homestead 1800 241 711
Alice Springs Visitor Centre 08 8952 5800
Maps = Westprint, Plenty Hwy & East MacDonnell Ranges
DAY 11 CATTLE WATER PASS – ALICE SPRINGS 190K’s
Travel Time: 5 hours
Route: Plenty Hwy, Gem Tree, Alice Springs
Comment: Leaving your bush camp on the Cattle Water Pass Track continue north until you reach the Plenty Hwy where you turn left, the road is still unsealed. You will reach Gem Tree where there is a nice Caravan Park (in case you did not wish to rough it last night). On the way to Gem Tree you will pass a track on your left, it is marked on the recommended maps. After having a look at Gem Tree retrace to this track and follow it to the south.
The road starts off through relatively flat country but soon enters a low range of hills, the road is unsealed. There are signs here advising that you are on aboriginal land but you are permitted to use the track. The road is very winding as it meanders through dry creek beds and around the colourful hills. The river gums make a great contrast of colour against the blue sky and the rugged landscape.
You will eventually come to a T intersection where you turn right to head out towards the Stuart Hwy. This road is unsealed also, and continues to dip and dive through gullies and creek beds, a very scenic drive indeed.
The road joins the sealed Stuart Hwy where you turn left for a short drive back into Alice Springs and back to your camp at the MacDonnell Range Holiday Park.
Fuel: Gem Tree, Alice Springs
Longest Distance between fuel Gem Tree to Alice Springs = 135k
Information: Tourist Bureau for NT 1800 621 336
Maps = Hema Central Australia
Weather Conditions.
The weather in Central Australia in July can be quite cool in the evenings, temperatures below 0 degrees Celsius are common. Through the day it warms up nicely to 20 degrees and sometimes much hotter around 30 degrees Celsius. The chance of rain is very remote but if it does rain the unsealed tracks become treacherous and will usually be closed for a day or two until they dry out.
July is the peak of the tourist season in Central Australia so you should see lots of travellers at this time, on the more remote tracks you will still see some people from time to time. Accommodation in the camping grounds mentioned could be tight and if you can ring ahead to book a spot on the numbers I have given, this might be a good idea.